Domes of Ancient Dawns
Domes of Ancient Dawns
Purnululu National Park, Eastern Kimberley, Australia
Creating ‘Domes of Ancient Dawns’
After twelve hours of driving, we arrived at the wilderness camp at twilight. In a classic wood-framed safari tent, I slipped under the one blanket for a chilly night full of animal calls I couldn’t recognize.
Janelle, wife of our guide, made a predawn flashlight round of the tents to wake jet lagged photographers, her cheerful Australian voice bringing us gently back to the world. We gathered in the camp’s dining area for some very welcome hot tea. In darkness it is the sounds you remember. Voices were hushed as we made our way to the Land Rover. Being a token American on the expedition all I heard were pleasant British and Ozy accents.
Onsite we followed sandy trails by the light of our headlamps, skirting bunches of spinifex grass and the occasional rock wall. As day lit the world, a story unfolded. We stood overlooking a flat expanse of Outback grassland leading to this range of ancient hills. We were standing on the edge of the never-never.
The stone layers of Purnululu were laid down 400 million years ago by rivers depositing iron rich sediments when this land saw far more rain. The dark layers are created by a type of algae that favors some layers over others. This algae forms a kind of hard shield that protects the soft stone from weathering effects. It is thought that this protection may be the origin of the unique structure of this landscape, but no one knows. It has taken 20 million years to carve them into the wildscape they hold now.
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